Mandalay es la segunda ciudad más grande de Myanmar con una población de más de un millón, sin embargo, no parece una ciudad bien desarrollada y organizada. El caos en carreteras no es nada nuevo para un país asiático, pero lo más llamativo parece ser la pobreza, los edificios decrépitos, alguien habría dicho que ‘tienen la ciudad llena de mierda’ y atraso general en el pensamiento y la tecnología también.
Como mencionamos anteriormente en uno de nuestros posts sobre Birmania, Mandalay, a pesar de ser la segunda ciudad más grande de este país, no tiene productos básicos disponibles en sus tiendas locales (encontrar un supermercado en nuestro caso era prácticamente una cuestión de suerte). Tampoco podrais comprar todo lo que necesitáis en una tienda (y estamos hablando de una de las partes centrales de la ciudad, 2 km del Mandalay Palace, cerca del lugar de nuestra estancia). Además, encontrar a alguien que entiende inglés seria un milagro. Cuando pregunatamos a alguna gente como podiamos llegar al mercado más cercano diciendo sólo la palabra: ‘market’ (haciendolo mas facil para ellos) y haciendo gestos creyendo que eso ayudaría – nadie nos entendió… Fue aquel momento cuando nuestra aplicación de mapas instalada en mi móvil tenia sus peores momentos y se colgó, así que tuvimos que preguntar a alguien sobre el camino, pero sinceramente, no podemos imaginar movernos por la ciudad sin ningún mapa.
Mandalay tiene mala fama en general pero no es verdad que alli no hay nada interesante. Aparte de su pobreza abyecta y la impresión de que el tiempo se paró allí hace muchos años muy pronto tendríais una colisión con la riqueza y el esplendor de los templos, construidos para Budda, empapados de oro. Y, sí, los templos son increíbles (especialmente los de algunos pueblos ubicados cerca de Mandalay), pero tan pronto como salgais de ellos, os enfrentais a una realidad muy triste que llamara vuestra atención immediatamente y que os da mucho para pensar: en el camino al palacio vais a encontrar a mucha gente sin lugar para vivir, mendigando en las calles, o ni siquiera haciéndolo y todavía adorando a Budda. Es sorprendente que en este pais la gente siempre tiene algunos centavos a gastar para donaciones en templos… La gente se rodea de estos templos de oro pero vive como ratas, esto es algo que no podremos entender nunca!
Es visible que al gobierno militar del país no le importa que la gente vive en tan males condiciones. Los ciudadanos tienen un acceso limitado a la información sobre lo que pasa en el mundo y, además, el gobierno se asegura de que muy poca información sobre su país pueda pasar fuera de sus fronteras y, como ya lo mencionamos, los turistas no deben llegar a las zonas más pobres de Myanmar, ya que no se les permite ver esta pobreza abyecta que prevalece en estas partes de Birmania. Existe también una limitación con respecto al acceso a templos / monumentos estándares en ciudades, por ejemplo hay una entrada independiente para los turistas que visitan Mandalay Palace, además, no se pueden mover demasiado cerca de las escuelas o los edificios principales del estado. Es una realidad específica a la que nosotros, los europeos contemporáneos, no estamos acostumbrados…
Volviendo a lo que vale la pena ver en Mandalay y sus alrededores: hay muchos templos hermosos para explorar. Por supuesto, teneis que planear un día para Mandalay Palace, Mandalay Hill y la zona circundante (unos templos), e ir a Zaycho Market. También deberíais regatear el precio con taxistas si quereis pasar el día entero para visitar lugares un poco distantes de Mandalay y aquellos en las afueras de la ciudad. Nosotros hicimos una excursión que cubró 10 lugares que nos interesaban por 16.000MMK / 12EUR por persona – vale la pena mencionar que pasamos casi todo el día visitando muchos sitios y el taxista nos dijo que no tuvieramos pisa, y nos queria llevar incluso a más lugares…
Aquí teneis 2 ofertas típicas que cada taxista tenia en su coche, la primera oferta fue para explorar la ciudad de Mandalay, la segunda – sus alrededores.
Nostros combinamos muchos lugares de una oferta con algunos de la otra, así que visitamos los siguientes lugares: Mahamuni Pagoda, Kuthodaw Pagoda, Shwe Inbin Monastery, Ahtumashi Pagoda, un lugar donde se producia estatuas de Budda de mármol, U Bein Bridge (el puente de madera de teca más largo del mundo con la longitud de 1,2 km), Amarapura (con la producción de lana y longyi – ‘faldas largas’ para los hombres), la Colina de Sagaing , U Min Thonze y Soon U Ponya Shin Pagoda. Omitimos la visita al monasterio en Amarapura, donde se podía observar monjes comiendo el desayuno – no nos parecia muy emocionante, así que no queriamos pasar el tiempo alli. Además, renunciamos tambien a visitar una aldea de Innwa, ya que resultó, que para visitar ese lugar habia que pagar extra por un bote que os transportaría al otro lado del río y luego pagar por un carro de caballos, que llevaba a turistas a los lugares mas populares del pueblo (el tiempo estimado para visitar Inna village: 1-2 horas). No esperamos ningún coste adicional durante esta ‘’excursión’’, y no estábamos particularmente entusiasmados con este punto del programa, así que lo omitimos.
U Min Thonze
Buddha en Soon U Ponya Shin Pagoda
The temple on Sagaing Hill.
Mahamuni Pagoda
Solo hombres pueden acercarse a la estatua de Budda (tan cerca que pueden tocarla).
Kuthodaw Pagoda
Ahtumashi Pagoda
Shwe Inbin Monastery
El primer día en Mandalay visitamos: Zaycho Market, Mandalay Palace, Mandalay Hill (necesitabamos un poco mas tiempo para subir la colina) y Sandamuni Pagoda.
Mandalay Palace
Mandalay Palace – la vista del torre.
Sandamuni Pagoda
De camino al Mandalay Hill.
La vista de un templo del Mandalay Hill.
Zaycho Market
La única entrada a pagar es un billete común al palacio de Mandalay, Innwa y monasterio de Inbin Shwe, que cuesta: 10.000MMK / 7,50EUR. Además, no pagais por la entrada en ningún otro sitio (en algunos casos tendráis que pagar 0,40EUR sólo para tener un permiso para tomar fotos, pero si sois una pareja pagaráis sólo una vez que sep aga por la cantidad de cámaras de foto que teneis, no por persona.
Bueno, es visible que los templos empapados de oro no son llamativos a la gente local apenas sobreviviendo en este pais (y nadie va a entender a nadie, ni nostros a ellos, ni ellos a la gente de fuera)… Mirando a este gran contraste hay una conclusión que viene a nuestras mentes – nuestro pensamiento no cambiará nada cuando hablamos de la sociedad con el “pensamiento impuesto por el régimen” bajo control estricto del gobierno, algunos lugares nos recuerdan a tiempos comunistas, la palabra: el “progreso” no existe en esta realidad – triste pero cierto. En ninguna otra ciudad habíamos visto tal vida pasando de un extremo a otro, sin transición . Y para sentirlo, teneis que venir y verlo vosotros.
U Bein Bridge (1.2km de longitud).
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Hi! We will certainly think about it, as there is so much interest in this topic conveyed to us by so many people visiting our website. But please have a bit of patience as we’re currently on our 6-month trip through Asia and need to manage with time while posting current information on other countries, and as you can see – we’re posting articles in 3 languages so it’s really time-consuming. We will certainly come back to the subject of Myanmar though. Thanks for your comment! Have a great day ahead!
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Hi! You’re not the first person who asks us about writing more about the subject 🙂 currently we are on a 6-month trip through Asia and have to manage with time to post current info on many countries. So please, have a bit of patience, we will certainly come back to the topic of relaity in Myanmar, seeing so much interest! 🙂
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Thank you! Maybe the following posts will also interest you?: Chiang Rai (it’s not only about sightseeing, there’s a big part devoted to long neck women and their sad lives), posts about cruel reality during the Vietnam War about Phu Quoc prison and Hoa Lo prison in Vietnam and our impression from our visit there. Hope you will enjoy them too!
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Hi, thanks for your suggestion! Actually this post is the most popular out of all so somehow it grabs people’s attention 😛 There are lots of pictures there. I never add videos, and don’t have them in fact. I’m not a writer by profession, so these are only my thoughts on travelling, still have 5 months to finish our journey through South-East Asia and this blog is quite new (3 months old). Certainly when I come back to my country I will analyze more the posts and polish them, now it’s rather impossible. Hope you understand. Thanks for your support!
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Thank you for your comment! Really appreciate that. We will certainly have Mandalay and its people in our memories for a long time. When you see 2 extremes ”trying to overlap”, you can’t be indifferent to that. Probably you will also like the post on northern Thailand : ”Chiang Rai: White Temple, Golden Triangle…” – I know that from the title you cannot get the real message, you may think that the post is just about sightseeing, but there is also some ‘real’ stuff described: people and the reality they live in: having in mind the so called ‘long neck women’ who have in fact Burmese roots – quite a controversial topic, hope you will enjoy the reading!
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