Mandalay to drugie co do wielkości miasto Birmy z liczbą mieszkańców przekraczającą milion, a mimo to wcale nie wyglądające na dobrze rozwinięte i zorganizowane. Chaos na drodze to w sumie nic nowego jak na kraj azjatycki, ale najbardziej z marszu uderza w oczy bieda, zaniedbane budynki, ktoś by powiedział: ‚syf, kiła i mogiła’ i ogólne zacofanie w myśleniu, tym technologicznym również.

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Jak wcześniej już wspominaliśmy w jednym z wpisów o Birmie to własnie w tym drugim co do wielkości mieście Birmy ciężko nam było kupić podstawowe produkty w jednym sklepie, a napotkać na supermarket to w ogóle był jakiś wyczyn (przynajmniej tak było w praktycznie centralnej części miasta, do 2km od Mandalay Palace, gdzie niedaleko nocowaliśmy). Poza tym, napotkać kogoś rozumiejącego angielski graniczy wręcz z cudem, pytając nawet o najbliższy targ wymawiając tylko słowo ‚market’ i gestykulując nikt nie ”zakumał” gdzie chcemy się dostać… akurat aplikacja z mapą nam szwankowała, więc musieliśmy o to zapytać, ale jak widać bez mapy ani rusz.

Co takie miasto może mieć do zaoferowania i czy w ogóle jest w stanie nas czymś zaskoczyć? Otóż tak! Bo oprócz wszechobecnej biedy i wrażenia, że się cofnęło gdzieś w czasie następuje też zderzenie z bogactwem i przepychem świątyń, które powstają na cześć Buddy, złota tam nigdy nie żałują. Oj można się zachwycić na potęgę tylko, że po zwiedzaniu człowiek zderza się znowu z tamtejszą smutną rzeczywistością: niektórzy ludzie nie mają gdzie żyć, żebrają po ulicach, a mimo to czczą Buddę i na datki zawsze znajdą jakiś grosz, coś co dla nas jest nie do pojęcia!

p1190141 Widać, że nikt tam nie dba o obywateli, a zwłaszcza o ich byt, z resztą czego można się spodziewać po rządzącej juncie wojskowej? Obywatele mają ograniczony dostęp do informacji dotyczących sytuacji na świecie, co więcej rząd dba o to, żeby jak najmniej informacji na temat ich kraju przedostawało się na zewnątrz, a jak już wspominaliśmy, turyści nie mogą dostać się do najbiedniejszych terenów w Birmie, nie zezwala się im na przebywanie w tamtych rejonach. Zwiedzanie normalnych świątyń w miastach również bywa ograniczane, jest oddzielne wejście dla turystów np. do Mandalay Palace, nie można poruszać się zbyt blisko szkół lub ważniejszych budynków państwowych. Jest to specyficzna rzeczywistość, do której my, współcześni Europejczycy, nie jesteśmy przyzwyczajeni…

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Wracając do tego, czym można się zachwycić w Mandalay i okolicach możecie zwiedzić naprawdę piękne świątynie. Na samo zwiedzanie Mandalay Palace i jego okolicy (kilku świątyń) oraz wzgórza: Mandalay Hill, pójście na miejski targ trzeba poświęcić 1 dzień na spokojnie. Warto też wynegocjować z taksówkarzami cenę za całodzienny transport do dalszych zabytków na terenie Mandalay i na obrzeżach miasta. Nam udało się zrobić taką objazdówkę do punktów, które nas interesowały (a było ich aż 10) za 16.000MMK/48PLN za osobę – warto wspomnieć, że jeździliśmy cały dzień i nikt nas nie pospieszał, a nawet sam taksówkarz pytał czy przy okazji nie chcemy zobaczyć jeszcze czegoś i, że może jeszcze podjechać z nami tu i tam…

Poniżej znajdziecie typowe oferty, które każdy taksówkarz ma w swoim samochodzie. Pierwsza oferta dotyczy zwiedzania samego miasta Mandalay, a druga – jego okolicy.

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My połączyliśmy wiele miejsc z jednej oferty z drugą i tak udało nam się zwiedzić następujące miejsca: Mahamuni Pagoda, Kuthodaw Pagoda, Shwe Inbin Monastery, Ahtumashi Pagoda, miejsce gdzie rzeźbi się marmur, U Bein Bridge (najdłuższy most z drzewa tekowego na świecie o długosci 1,2km), Amarapura (gdzie widzieliśmy też jak wyrabia się wełnę), wzgórze Sagaing, U Min Thonze i Soon U Ponya Shin Pagoda. Zrezygnowaliśmy z wizyty w klasztorze w Amarapura, gdzie w programie było patrzenie jak mnisi spożywają posiłek – mało ekscytujące, więc sobie darowaliśmy. Poza tym pominęliśmy wioskę Innwa, gdyż okazało się, że żeby ją zwiedzić trzeba zapłacić dodatkowo za transport łodzią na drugą stronę rzeki i za karocę z końmi, która obwoziła turystów po najważniejszych punktach wioski, co miało trwać od 1-2godzin. Nie spodziewaliśmy się dodatkowych kosztów w trakcie tej wycieczki, a nie byliśmy szczególnie napaleni, żeby tam akurat się wybrać.

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U Min Thonze

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Budda w Soon U Ponya Shin Pagoda

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Wnętrze świątyni na wzgórzu Sagaing.

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Mahamuni Pagoda

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Blisko posągu Buddy (na tyle blisko, żeby go dotknąć) mogą przebywać tylko mężczyźni.

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Kuthodaw Pagoda

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Ahtumashi Pagoda

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Shwe Inbin Monastery

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Spacerując pierwszego dnia pobytu po mieście zwiedziliśmy Zaycho Market, Mandalay Palace, Mandalay Hill (do pokonania sporo schodów na wzgórze) i Sandamuni Pagodę.

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Mandalay Palace

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Widok na teren pałacu z wieży.

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Sandamuni Pagoda

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W drodze na wzgórze Mandalay

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Widok ze świątyni na wzgórzu Mandalay

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Zaycho Market

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Warto wiedzieć, że jedynym biletem wstępu jaki trzeba gdziekolwiek zapłacić jest bilet wspólny do Mandalay Palace, Innwa i Shwe Inbin Monastery, który kosztuje: 10.oooMMK/30PLN. Poza tym nigdzie się nie płaci za wstęp (może jedynie w 2 miejscach płaciliśmy grosze: 1,50PLN za zezwolenie na robienie zdjęć, ale to tylko za 1 osobę, bo patrzono na ilość aparatów w ręce. Przykładem jest Mahamuni Pagoda, ale tam nie zrobić zdjęć to grzech, tak jest pięknie!).

Cóż, jak widać ociekające złotem świątynie nie rażą biednie żyjących Birmańczyków, którzy nie są w stanie nawet myśleć takimi kategoriami jak my… Patrząc na ten ogromny kontrast dochodzi się do jednego wniosku – nasze myślenie niczego nie zmieni kiedy ma się do czynienia ze społeczeństwem myślącym ”reżimowo”, komunistycznie, z klapkami na oczach, nie dostrzegającym swojego zacofania, trzymanym pod ścisłą kontrolą rządu. Słowo: ”postęp” tak jakby tu nie istniało. Smutne, ale prawdziwe. W żadnym innym mieście birmańskim nie dostrzegliśmy aż tak wyraźnego przejścia ze skrajności w skrajność. To trzeba zobaczyć, to trzeba poczuć.

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U Bein Bridge (1.2km długosci).

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112 Replies to “Mandalay i okolice – świątynie kapiące złotem vs smutna rzeczywistość…”

  1. Excellent post however , I was wanting to know if you could write a litte more on this subject?
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    1. Hi Odette! Thank you for your comment! I can see than your curiosity craves for more 🙂 Writing this post we intentionally wanted to leave for a reader a space to think the topic over, to want to explore it themselves and see if they feel it the same way. We didn’t want to ‚serve them the whole dish on the plate’ especially regarding such a delicate subject. Tell us what you are curious about in particular and we will reply to you asap!

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    1. Thank you for your comment! Really appreciate that. We will certainly have Mandalay and its people in our memories for a long time. When you see 2 extremes ”trying to overlap”, you can’t be indifferent to that. Probably you will also like the post on northern Thailand : ”Chiang Rai: White Temple, Golden Triangle…” – I know that from the title you cannot get the real message, you may think that the post is just about sightseeing, but there is also some ‚real’ stuff described: people and the reality they live in: having in mind the so called ‚long neck women’ who have in fact Burmese roots – quite a controversial topic, hope you will enjoy the reading!

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